I've long wanted to write a post explaining why things are so expensive here in Brazil.
Well I waited long enough and someone else did the work! Enjoy this article that explains most of the main issues.
http://super.abril.com.br/blogs/crash/why-everything-costs-so-much-in-brazil/
Boren Bearcat in Brazil
Sharing my experiences as a Boren Scholar while living in Sao Paulo
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Violence
Perhaps one of the topics that I have had the most reflection on while I've been in Brazil has been...VIOLENCE.
Allow me to tell you what most people's initial reactions were when they heard I was going to Brazil.
"Good lord, why would you ever study there?!"
"My uncle once did business there, he had to hire three body guards to go to lunch in Sao Paulo."
"My dad did business there once, he got robbed in his taxi on the first day."
"Haven't you seen the movie "City of God", it's just an impoverished and drug ridden country."
Even worse, read the following description about Sao Paulo & Rio de Janeiro from the US State Department website and tell me if you have any interest in coming to Brazil or the two cities I've spent the most time in.
The incidence of crime against tourists is greater in areas surrounding beaches, hotels, discotheques, bars, nightclubs, and other tourist destinations. It is especially prevalent prior to and during Carnival (Brazilian Mardi Gras), but also occurs throughout the year. Several Brazilian cities have established specialized tourist police units to patrol areas frequented by tourists.
Use caution when traveling through rural areas and satellite cities due to reported incidents of roadside robberies that randomly target passing vehicles. Robberies and “quicknappings” outside of banks and ATMs occur regularly. In a “quicknapping,” criminals abduct victims for a short time in order to receive a quick payoff from the family, business, or the victim’s ATM card. Some victims have been beaten and/or raped. You should also take precautions to avoid being carjacked, especially in Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Recife, and other cities.
In airports, hotel lobbies, bus stations, and other public places, pick pocketing and the theft of hand-carried luggage and laptop computers is common. You should "dress down" when in public and avoid carrying valuables or wearing jewelry or expensive watches. "Good Samaritan" scams are common. If a tourist looks lost or seems to be having trouble communicating, a seemingly innocent bystander offering help may actually be a participant in a scam. Take care at and around banks and ATMs which accept U.S. credit or debit cards. Travelers using personal ATM or credit cards sometimes receive billing statements with unauthorized charges after returning from a visit to Brazil, or discover that their cards were cloned or duplicated without their knowledge. If you use such payment methods, carefully monitor your bank records for the duration of your visit.
Sao Paulo: All areas of Greater Sao Paulo have a high rate of armed robbery of pedestrians and drivers at stoplights and during rush hour traffic. The "red light districts" of Sao Paulo, located on Rua Augusta north of Avenida Paulista and the Estacao de Luz metro area, are especially dangerous. There are regular reports of young women slipping various drugs into men's drinks and robbing them of all their belongings while they are unconscious. Armed holdups of pedestrians and motorists by young men on motorcycles (“motoboys”) are a common occurrence in Sao Paulo. Criminals have also begun targeting restaurants throughout the city including, but not limited to, establishments in the upscale neighborhoods of Jardins, Itaim Bibi, Campo Belo, Morumbi and Moema. Victims who resist run the risk of violent attack. Laptop computers, other electronics, and luxury watches are the targets of choice for criminals in Sao Paulo.
Throughout 2012, armed groups in Sao Paulo targeted restaurants, robbing patrons during the peak business hours of 2100 to 2400. These criminal events are not isolated to one area of the city and target both rich and poor neighborhoods.
Efforts of incarcerated drug lords to exert their power outside of their jail cells have resulted in sporadic disruptions in the city, violence directed at the authorities, bus burnings, and vandalism at ATM machines, including the use of explosives. Be aware of your surroundings and exercise caution at all times. Respect police roadblocks and be aware that some municipal services may be disrupted.
As in Rio de Janeiro, favela tours have recently become popular among foreign tourists in Sao Paulo. We advise you to avoid Sao Paulo’s favelas as neither the tour company nor the city police can guarantee your safety when entering favelas.
Rio de Janeiro: The city continues to experience high incidences of crime. Tourists are particularly vulnerable to street thefts and robberies in the evening and at night especially in areas adjacent to major tourist attractions. There have been attacks, including shootings, along trails leading to the famous Corcovado Mountain and in other parts of the Tijuca Forest. If robbed, do not attempt to resist or fight back, but rather relinquish your personal belongings. At all times, pay close attention to your surroundings and the behavior of those nearby. There have been reports of thieves and rapists slipping incapacitating drugs into drinks at bars, hotel rooms, and street parties. While crime occurs throughout the year, it is more frequent during Carnival and the weeks prior.
Choose lodging carefully considering location, security, and the availability of a safe to store valuables. Do not answer your hotel room door until you positively confirm who is on the other side. Look out the peephole or call the front desk to confirm the visitor. There have been several recent incidents where mass holdups of guests have occurred at hotels and hostels in the city.
Rio de Janeiro’s favelas are a subject of curiosity for many U.S. travelers. A favela pacification program, instituted in 2008, installed police stations in some favelas, primarily in the Zona Sul area. However, most favelas exist outside the control of city officials and police. Travelers are urged to exercise caution when entering any “pacified” favelas and should not go into favelas that are not “pacified” by the state government. Even in some “pacified” favelas, the ability of police to provide assistance, especially at night, may be limited. Several local companies offer “favela jeep tours” targeted at foreign tourists. Be aware that neither the tour company nor the city police can guarantee your safety when entering favelas.
Be vigilant while on the roads, especially at night. There have been shootings and carjackings on the Linha Vermelha that links the airport to the Southern Zone of the city. In Rio de Janeiro, motorists should be especially vigilant at stoplights and when stuck in traffic. Carjackings and holdups can occur at intersections, especially at night. Incidents of crime on public transportation are frequent, and at times have involved violent crimes. When traveling by yellow taxi, tourists are recommended only to use taxis openly displaying company information and phone numbers as well as red license plates. Tourists are also advised not to use public vans.
Visitors should also remain alert to the possibility of manhole cover explosions. There have been multiple manhole cover explosions in Rio de Janeiro in the past few years, with a higher incidence in the Centro and Copacabana neighborhoods.
Now let me be honest, all of the above is certainly true, otherwise they wouldn't write about it.
I, for one, have experienced some violence during my time abroad...including witnessing a complete gangster operation where they carjacked a woman, kidnapped her child, held people hostage at gunpoint, and then forced the woman to rob a jewelry store with a bomb attached to her in case she didn't. The other instance I made a post about in late November about my time in Argentina and the kniving murderer I had to run away from after a soccer game.
On another note, if you haven't seen the movie "City of God" or "Elite Squad I and II" then you're missing out on some great cinematic productions that will have you on the edge of your seat about this country.
Yet, let me note that none of the above is my norm. I don't walk around with body guards, I don't feel consistently threatened, I don't live my life in fear here, nor have I been robbed (only the credit card cloned...$14,000 at Tommy Hilfiger...nice purchase eh?!). If I truly felt in danger, I would have been gone a long time ago.
One of the things that has been incredibly shocking has been the "violence parallels" that I've drawn upon as things have occurred in the US.
The week I arrived, the US was shocked with a brutal Colorado shooting in a Denver cinema, months later I was again taken aback by the gruesome slaughtering of many children in a Connecticut elementary school. And...it hasn't stopped there, the recent Boston terrorist bombing and the explosion in Texas continually have put into perspective the concept of violence as I continue to live abroad in a "violent" country.
IT HAPPENS EVERYWHERE
Sure, the types of violence are different. But they should all serve as warnings that there's really no way to fully mitigate your risk to violence.
People in Brazil are equally scared of the types of violence in the US as Americans are of the violence here. In fact, due to the random terror that is more prone to attack the US, Brazilians might even be more scared, from my perspective. I understand this type of fear. Once I found the fact that I wore a money belt as an inconvenience and no way to live, but now I view it as a consistent reminder that I must always remain vigilant, whether walking to class in Sao Paulo or running a marathon in Boston. While some would say that living in constant vigilance is draining, I would say that the moment I let my guard down may be the moment I wish I hadn't. I almost like the reminder...it keeps me sharp.
If I've formed any opinion about crime, it's been the following: You can't live in fear...but you can play your cards right. Life will be no fun if you always think something bad is going to happen. You simply cannot be negative or lock yourself in your house for fear that something might go wrong. Go out and live your life. Give all of yourself to the world. When your time is up, it's up...and you'll have no say in the matter. What you can do though, is take a look around where you are, have a plan, take a second to locate an exit, learn an emergency number, or stay calm in a tough situation. And provided you're not throwing yourself in an extremely dangerous setting, then I like the chances.
I write this post knocking on wood...and I hope that my advice even serves me well.
Allow me to tell you what most people's initial reactions were when they heard I was going to Brazil.
"Good lord, why would you ever study there?!"
"My uncle once did business there, he had to hire three body guards to go to lunch in Sao Paulo."
"My dad did business there once, he got robbed in his taxi on the first day."
"Haven't you seen the movie "City of God", it's just an impoverished and drug ridden country."
Even worse, read the following description about Sao Paulo & Rio de Janeiro from the US State Department website and tell me if you have any interest in coming to Brazil or the two cities I've spent the most time in.
CRIME: Brazilian police and media report
that the crime rate remains high in most urban centers, including the
cities of Rio de
Janeiro and Sao Paulo, and is also growing in
rural areas within those states. Brazil’s murder rate is more than four
times
higher than that of the United States, and rates
for other crimes are similarly high.
Street crime remains a problem for visitors and
local residents alike. Foreign tourists, including U.S. citizens, are
often
targets, especially in Sao Paulo, Rio de
Janeiro, Salvador, and Recife. While the risk is greater during the
evening and at
night, street crime also occurs during the day,
and safer areas of cities are not immune. Incidents of theft on city
buses
are frequent. You should keep a copy of your
passport with you while in public and keep your passport in a hotel safe
or other
secure place. You should also carry proof of
your health insurance with you.
The incidence of crime against tourists is greater in areas surrounding beaches, hotels, discotheques, bars, nightclubs, and other tourist destinations. It is especially prevalent prior to and during Carnival (Brazilian Mardi Gras), but also occurs throughout the year. Several Brazilian cities have established specialized tourist police units to patrol areas frequented by tourists.
Use caution when traveling through rural areas and satellite cities due to reported incidents of roadside robberies that randomly target passing vehicles. Robberies and “quicknappings” outside of banks and ATMs occur regularly. In a “quicknapping,” criminals abduct victims for a short time in order to receive a quick payoff from the family, business, or the victim’s ATM card. Some victims have been beaten and/or raped. You should also take precautions to avoid being carjacked, especially in Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Recife, and other cities.
In airports, hotel lobbies, bus stations, and other public places, pick pocketing and the theft of hand-carried luggage and laptop computers is common. You should "dress down" when in public and avoid carrying valuables or wearing jewelry or expensive watches. "Good Samaritan" scams are common. If a tourist looks lost or seems to be having trouble communicating, a seemingly innocent bystander offering help may actually be a participant in a scam. Take care at and around banks and ATMs which accept U.S. credit or debit cards. Travelers using personal ATM or credit cards sometimes receive billing statements with unauthorized charges after returning from a visit to Brazil, or discover that their cards were cloned or duplicated without their knowledge. If you use such payment methods, carefully monitor your bank records for the duration of your visit.
Sao Paulo: All areas of Greater Sao Paulo have a high rate of armed robbery of pedestrians and drivers at stoplights and during rush hour traffic. The "red light districts" of Sao Paulo, located on Rua Augusta north of Avenida Paulista and the Estacao de Luz metro area, are especially dangerous. There are regular reports of young women slipping various drugs into men's drinks and robbing them of all their belongings while they are unconscious. Armed holdups of pedestrians and motorists by young men on motorcycles (“motoboys”) are a common occurrence in Sao Paulo. Criminals have also begun targeting restaurants throughout the city including, but not limited to, establishments in the upscale neighborhoods of Jardins, Itaim Bibi, Campo Belo, Morumbi and Moema. Victims who resist run the risk of violent attack. Laptop computers, other electronics, and luxury watches are the targets of choice for criminals in Sao Paulo.
Throughout 2012, armed groups in Sao Paulo targeted restaurants, robbing patrons during the peak business hours of 2100 to 2400. These criminal events are not isolated to one area of the city and target both rich and poor neighborhoods.
Efforts of incarcerated drug lords to exert their power outside of their jail cells have resulted in sporadic disruptions in the city, violence directed at the authorities, bus burnings, and vandalism at ATM machines, including the use of explosives. Be aware of your surroundings and exercise caution at all times. Respect police roadblocks and be aware that some municipal services may be disrupted.
As in Rio de Janeiro, favela tours have recently become popular among foreign tourists in Sao Paulo. We advise you to avoid Sao Paulo’s favelas as neither the tour company nor the city police can guarantee your safety when entering favelas.
Rio de Janeiro: The city continues to experience high incidences of crime. Tourists are particularly vulnerable to street thefts and robberies in the evening and at night especially in areas adjacent to major tourist attractions. There have been attacks, including shootings, along trails leading to the famous Corcovado Mountain and in other parts of the Tijuca Forest. If robbed, do not attempt to resist or fight back, but rather relinquish your personal belongings. At all times, pay close attention to your surroundings and the behavior of those nearby. There have been reports of thieves and rapists slipping incapacitating drugs into drinks at bars, hotel rooms, and street parties. While crime occurs throughout the year, it is more frequent during Carnival and the weeks prior.
Choose lodging carefully considering location, security, and the availability of a safe to store valuables. Do not answer your hotel room door until you positively confirm who is on the other side. Look out the peephole or call the front desk to confirm the visitor. There have been several recent incidents where mass holdups of guests have occurred at hotels and hostels in the city.
Rio de Janeiro’s favelas are a subject of curiosity for many U.S. travelers. A favela pacification program, instituted in 2008, installed police stations in some favelas, primarily in the Zona Sul area. However, most favelas exist outside the control of city officials and police. Travelers are urged to exercise caution when entering any “pacified” favelas and should not go into favelas that are not “pacified” by the state government. Even in some “pacified” favelas, the ability of police to provide assistance, especially at night, may be limited. Several local companies offer “favela jeep tours” targeted at foreign tourists. Be aware that neither the tour company nor the city police can guarantee your safety when entering favelas.
Be vigilant while on the roads, especially at night. There have been shootings and carjackings on the Linha Vermelha that links the airport to the Southern Zone of the city. In Rio de Janeiro, motorists should be especially vigilant at stoplights and when stuck in traffic. Carjackings and holdups can occur at intersections, especially at night. Incidents of crime on public transportation are frequent, and at times have involved violent crimes. When traveling by yellow taxi, tourists are recommended only to use taxis openly displaying company information and phone numbers as well as red license plates. Tourists are also advised not to use public vans.
Visitors should also remain alert to the possibility of manhole cover explosions. There have been multiple manhole cover explosions in Rio de Janeiro in the past few years, with a higher incidence in the Centro and Copacabana neighborhoods.
Now let me be honest, all of the above is certainly true, otherwise they wouldn't write about it.
I, for one, have experienced some violence during my time abroad...including witnessing a complete gangster operation where they carjacked a woman, kidnapped her child, held people hostage at gunpoint, and then forced the woman to rob a jewelry store with a bomb attached to her in case she didn't. The other instance I made a post about in late November about my time in Argentina and the kniving murderer I had to run away from after a soccer game.
On another note, if you haven't seen the movie "City of God" or "Elite Squad I and II" then you're missing out on some great cinematic productions that will have you on the edge of your seat about this country.
Yet, let me note that none of the above is my norm. I don't walk around with body guards, I don't feel consistently threatened, I don't live my life in fear here, nor have I been robbed (only the credit card cloned...$14,000 at Tommy Hilfiger...nice purchase eh?!). If I truly felt in danger, I would have been gone a long time ago.
One of the things that has been incredibly shocking has been the "violence parallels" that I've drawn upon as things have occurred in the US.
The week I arrived, the US was shocked with a brutal Colorado shooting in a Denver cinema, months later I was again taken aback by the gruesome slaughtering of many children in a Connecticut elementary school. And...it hasn't stopped there, the recent Boston terrorist bombing and the explosion in Texas continually have put into perspective the concept of violence as I continue to live abroad in a "violent" country.
IT HAPPENS EVERYWHERE
Sure, the types of violence are different. But they should all serve as warnings that there's really no way to fully mitigate your risk to violence.
People in Brazil are equally scared of the types of violence in the US as Americans are of the violence here. In fact, due to the random terror that is more prone to attack the US, Brazilians might even be more scared, from my perspective. I understand this type of fear. Once I found the fact that I wore a money belt as an inconvenience and no way to live, but now I view it as a consistent reminder that I must always remain vigilant, whether walking to class in Sao Paulo or running a marathon in Boston. While some would say that living in constant vigilance is draining, I would say that the moment I let my guard down may be the moment I wish I hadn't. I almost like the reminder...it keeps me sharp.
If I've formed any opinion about crime, it's been the following: You can't live in fear...but you can play your cards right. Life will be no fun if you always think something bad is going to happen. You simply cannot be negative or lock yourself in your house for fear that something might go wrong. Go out and live your life. Give all of yourself to the world. When your time is up, it's up...and you'll have no say in the matter. What you can do though, is take a look around where you are, have a plan, take a second to locate an exit, learn an emergency number, or stay calm in a tough situation. And provided you're not throwing yourself in an extremely dangerous setting, then I like the chances.
I write this post knocking on wood...and I hope that my advice even serves me well.
The Amazon
Greetings blog followers!
I'm back with one of my latest adventures, and might I say that it was easily one of the coolest of my life...a week-long trip to the AMAZON JUNGLE!
So, let me say that my knowledge of the Amazon was probably equivalent to most Americans who once saw an episode on the History Channel, once read an article in National Geographic, or once viewed the movie Anaconda. Thankfully, those few instances were enough to peak my interest in booking a trip, and thank god I took advantage of it!
We had our Spring Break at the end of last month, and much to your possible dislike of what I'm about to say: I was tired of beaches. Beaches to Brazil are like Walgreen's or Starbucks to cities...they're at every corner. I've taken advantage of plenty of beach time and thus, was inspired to be a little more adventurous and see another side of Brazil that I had not yet gotten to know. Insert 6 day boat trip through the Amazon Jungle as the perfect fix.
We flew to the west side of the country, landing in Manaus, right along the Rio Negro (Black River) and the Amazon River. The city of about 3 million is a bustling port town that embraces its robust indigenous culture and sprawling natural resources. Our stay there was short though, simply stopping at the market to pick up some snacks before boarding our boat and hitting the water.
"Rustic" had a new definition when it comes to our trip. We boarded our two-story wooden cruiser and were off in a heartbeat. The main level housed a mini-kitchen where all of our meals were cooked, two simple toilets for guys and gals, and a shower head that pumped water from the river to stay relatively clean for the week. Towards the front was a table for us to eat and then the captain's quarters. Upstairs was a mini-veranda for taking in the sun and then a covered deck where we hung our hammocks to sleep at night.
At first, I wasn't sure what we were going to get ourselves into and didn't know if the trip would be an absolute blast or if we'd have way too much down time with nothing to do. I was, indeed, excited about disconnecting from phone/internet for a week despite what time we might have to kill. It quickly became evident though that our time in the world's most rich area of wildlife was going to be the trip of a lifetime. After making a quick stop at the meeting of the waters (where the two rivers divide impressively in distinct colors due to acidity differences), we made our first stop for a quick jungle hike where we saw a number of lizards, monkeys, sloths, and a few Cayman (essentially alligators) in their natural environment. I was impressed...and there was a level of extreme coolness factor to the fact that you saw the animals (at first bringing you back to your childhood days at the zoo) to only realize that you're in the Amazon Jungle and that these animals are not being held captive in some glass container, but rather are living their lives the way they should be. At the same time, you then realize that you don't have a glass window protecting you from these animals in the odd chance they would want to attack you. This brought a new level of excitement to the trip.
The scenery was ABSOLUTELY BREATHTAKING. And the natural peace and quiet was refreshing. We would cruise along the river for hours and I found myself simply staring at the pure beauty of this incredible place. We would dock in little nooks along the riverside at night to avoid potential storms and would enjoy the most magnificent sunsets/moonrises highlighted with a backdrop of shining stars and the sound of thousands of species of nocturnal animals making their appearances known to their counterparts. It was quite simply, the most awesome and peaceful evenings I've had in my life.
During the days we would cruise again along the river to our destinations while simultaneously spotting incredible wildlife. I was thoroughly impressed with our guide. A 16 year veteran of the Amazon, this man not only spoke beautiful English, his talent at his work was superb. His ability to spot these animals amidst the dense forest was mind boggling...and he could identify species from far away. His stories were priceless and it was evident that he was the best in the business and in the area as we encountered local communities that treated him like a treasured friend. We took a few piranha fishing trips during our days, which was probably one of my favorite things. We took out our old cane poles and attached fresh meat to rudimentary hooks...you'd place the line in the water and these vicious savages would attack your cane ruthlessly! We even caught one that was so big and powerful that the guide held it up to a thick tree branch and the piranha snapped it in half...a clean break.
At night, we would take out our canoes and flashlights and went night hunting for nocturnal animals. Our favorite was searching for the Caymans. You could spot their eyes along the waterline, and we were even lucky enough to catch a few and hold them in the boat. Check out the pictures at the end of this post.
Other trips included stops to local indigenous communities where we viewed special rituals and learned about their way of life. We were enlightened with such rudimentary living styles and it put into perspective, again, the type of life I'm living in the bustling city of Sao Paulo, home to some 18-24 million depending on how you count.
Pictures really do tell the story in this one, so look away!
And if you ever have the chance to take a tour to the Amazong, GO! IT WILL BE ONE OF THE COOLEST THINGS YOU EVER DO!
PICTURES
I'm back with one of my latest adventures, and might I say that it was easily one of the coolest of my life...a week-long trip to the AMAZON JUNGLE!
So, let me say that my knowledge of the Amazon was probably equivalent to most Americans who once saw an episode on the History Channel, once read an article in National Geographic, or once viewed the movie Anaconda. Thankfully, those few instances were enough to peak my interest in booking a trip, and thank god I took advantage of it!
We had our Spring Break at the end of last month, and much to your possible dislike of what I'm about to say: I was tired of beaches. Beaches to Brazil are like Walgreen's or Starbucks to cities...they're at every corner. I've taken advantage of plenty of beach time and thus, was inspired to be a little more adventurous and see another side of Brazil that I had not yet gotten to know. Insert 6 day boat trip through the Amazon Jungle as the perfect fix.
We flew to the west side of the country, landing in Manaus, right along the Rio Negro (Black River) and the Amazon River. The city of about 3 million is a bustling port town that embraces its robust indigenous culture and sprawling natural resources. Our stay there was short though, simply stopping at the market to pick up some snacks before boarding our boat and hitting the water.
"Rustic" had a new definition when it comes to our trip. We boarded our two-story wooden cruiser and were off in a heartbeat. The main level housed a mini-kitchen where all of our meals were cooked, two simple toilets for guys and gals, and a shower head that pumped water from the river to stay relatively clean for the week. Towards the front was a table for us to eat and then the captain's quarters. Upstairs was a mini-veranda for taking in the sun and then a covered deck where we hung our hammocks to sleep at night.
At first, I wasn't sure what we were going to get ourselves into and didn't know if the trip would be an absolute blast or if we'd have way too much down time with nothing to do. I was, indeed, excited about disconnecting from phone/internet for a week despite what time we might have to kill. It quickly became evident though that our time in the world's most rich area of wildlife was going to be the trip of a lifetime. After making a quick stop at the meeting of the waters (where the two rivers divide impressively in distinct colors due to acidity differences), we made our first stop for a quick jungle hike where we saw a number of lizards, monkeys, sloths, and a few Cayman (essentially alligators) in their natural environment. I was impressed...and there was a level of extreme coolness factor to the fact that you saw the animals (at first bringing you back to your childhood days at the zoo) to only realize that you're in the Amazon Jungle and that these animals are not being held captive in some glass container, but rather are living their lives the way they should be. At the same time, you then realize that you don't have a glass window protecting you from these animals in the odd chance they would want to attack you. This brought a new level of excitement to the trip.
The scenery was ABSOLUTELY BREATHTAKING. And the natural peace and quiet was refreshing. We would cruise along the river for hours and I found myself simply staring at the pure beauty of this incredible place. We would dock in little nooks along the riverside at night to avoid potential storms and would enjoy the most magnificent sunsets/moonrises highlighted with a backdrop of shining stars and the sound of thousands of species of nocturnal animals making their appearances known to their counterparts. It was quite simply, the most awesome and peaceful evenings I've had in my life.
During the days we would cruise again along the river to our destinations while simultaneously spotting incredible wildlife. I was thoroughly impressed with our guide. A 16 year veteran of the Amazon, this man not only spoke beautiful English, his talent at his work was superb. His ability to spot these animals amidst the dense forest was mind boggling...and he could identify species from far away. His stories were priceless and it was evident that he was the best in the business and in the area as we encountered local communities that treated him like a treasured friend. We took a few piranha fishing trips during our days, which was probably one of my favorite things. We took out our old cane poles and attached fresh meat to rudimentary hooks...you'd place the line in the water and these vicious savages would attack your cane ruthlessly! We even caught one that was so big and powerful that the guide held it up to a thick tree branch and the piranha snapped it in half...a clean break.
At night, we would take out our canoes and flashlights and went night hunting for nocturnal animals. Our favorite was searching for the Caymans. You could spot their eyes along the waterline, and we were even lucky enough to catch a few and hold them in the boat. Check out the pictures at the end of this post.
Other trips included stops to local indigenous communities where we viewed special rituals and learned about their way of life. We were enlightened with such rudimentary living styles and it put into perspective, again, the type of life I'm living in the bustling city of Sao Paulo, home to some 18-24 million depending on how you count.
Pictures really do tell the story in this one, so look away!
And if you ever have the chance to take a tour to the Amazong, GO! IT WILL BE ONE OF THE COOLEST THINGS YOU EVER DO!
PICTURES
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
The Brazilian Cost
Well, if this isn't exactly how I feel sometimes living in this country...not just phone service!
http://www.economist.com/blogs/americasview/2013/04/telecoms-brazil
Yes, frustrating sometimes but this country does have a lot to offer at the same time and is easy to fall in love with!
http://www.economist.com/blogs/americasview/2013/04/telecoms-brazil
Yes, frustrating sometimes but this country does have a lot to offer at the same time and is easy to fall in love with!
Aqui no Brasil
Great post from a fellow blogger about Brazil!
Forewarning: It's in Portuguese...some of them are classic though...my personal favorite is #40.
http://olivierdobrasil.blogspot.com.br/2013/04/curiosidades-brasileiras.html?spref=fb
Forewarning: It's in Portuguese...some of them are classic though...my personal favorite is #40.
http://olivierdobrasil.blogspot.com.br/2013/04/curiosidades-brasileiras.html?spref=fb
Thursday, March 21, 2013
How long I've been here? Or how long I've been gone?
I've thought so much about this topic over the last week as a friend of mine from the US came to visit me in Sao Paulo.
Read the following link to know exactly how I feel! Due credit to another fellow blogger abroad!
http://thoughtcatalog.com/2012/what-happens-when-you-live-abroad/
Read the following link to know exactly how I feel! Due credit to another fellow blogger abroad!
http://thoughtcatalog.com/2012/what-happens-when-you-live-abroad/
Thursday, February 21, 2013
Carnival
Am I prepared?
As I unpack my suitcase, filled with what you could likely consider "nightclub" material, my friend asks why I would have brought such nice clothing. It's going to be dirty, he responds. Clearly it was my first time.
I traded my Cole Haan loafers for a pair of ragged old sneakers and threw on a tank top instead. Tightly buckling my money belt under my shorts, I whispered a quick prayer under my breath only guessing what I was going to get myself into. I put the sunscreen on the desk corner next to the door to remind me that although I may feel invincible, the unforgiving Rio de Janeiro sun would fry me like a chicken. Sunglasses...a toss up. I should have brought a $1 pair from the gas station but decided to risk it on the street with the Ray Ban's I had. I glance back at my friend with that look as if I might have forgot something. Oblivious to my worry, he hurried me out the door asking "you ready for this?!" in that rhetorical no-turning-back-now voice.
The Blocos
We bolted for the door, walking just fast enough not to run...anticipating and equally prepping to endure some heavy traffic and a ferry ride across the bay. I was finally on my way to the greatest show on earth...
As we approached the bloco, the sweet smell of hot sweaty people, stale beer, and fresh popcorn was easily overwhelmed by the sounds of samba baterias, drunken sailor songs, and street vendors. My eyes widened as we neared the mob spanning the entire city block. Thousands of people seemed unrecognizable. The ridiculous costumes covered their identity but the joy emitting from them was equally disguising. So palpable I will call it transformative...the first time in life I've seen true happiness penetrate thousands the way this celebration prompted. It was also the first time I felt as if Brazil was host to an equal society. Because this was not a celebration of societal rank; this celebration is synonymous with what it means to be Brazilian.
To my left a shirtless vendor convinces me to buy a black wig amongst a blanket full of silly accessories. Of course, I comply. To my right, I weave through the mile long line awaiting the porta-potties. The stench permeates the air...so much so that my only escape for a fresh breath comes from the clean pocket of air trapped between the cap of my can and the cold beer that's in it. We pass the styrofoam cooler on my right where the vendor tries to convince us to buy the big cans for a promotional price. I try to act like I know what I'm doing and pull out a $5...before my friend butts in and takes control...instructing the man to grab the smallest cans beneath the ice.
"It gets colder quicker and stays that way longer," my friend murmurs while he pays. He cracks them open, smiling as if he's won the lottery. We pump fists and subsequently cheers..."SAUDE".
I roam the party, dodging innocent clowns, sexy police officers, and hunched over transvestites. I catch myself staring at all these crazy people. My friend notices, laughs, then hits me on the shoulder. "Act like you've been here before," he chuckles, likely saving me from petty crime.
We walk a little further into the mob attracted by the contagious energy of a percussion band jamming out to popular national songs. One of the drummers holds up a sign <here...drunks don't enter...they just leave>. I make myself comfortable.
It lasts all day and all night. We rotate in water and food as needed. As the night goes on, the people get crazier, the music gets louder, and the crowd grows larger. Subconsciously you know its late, but everything around you is so stimulating that becoming tired is nearly impossible. As 5 AM nears I wonder when we'll go home. I imagine a long day of sleep before another night of Brazilian madness...but once again, I prove my naivety. We return no later than 10 AM to the bloco with a vengeance, joining in on the civilian stroll through the streets. Onlookers from apartment buildings above throw buckets of water on us as we march along in song. This week is simply "rinse and repeat".
The Parade
The lone exception to this regiment occurs the day before the desfile - if you're one of the lucky ones who gets a ticket. Sleeping in and an afternoon nap become necessary if you are to properly brave the 8-hour all night adventure in the sambodroma. And we abided by the recommendation.
As we approached the mile long stadium, my heart began to race with excitement. Wasn't this something you only see on TV? How lucky am I to be going?
En route to our entrance, we push through crowds of onlookers. The street is lined with food, beer, and booths selling apparel from their beloved samba schools. Loaded with history, these schools are household names, practicing all year long for the big event. Their operations and funding are complex. Their membership is robust and prideful...their followership...is the world. Closer to the stadium, I get a sneak peek at the ornate costumes, easily very expensive...I'm told the finest are in the realm of $100,000-$200,000 dollars.
We make our way to our seats, dragging along our bag full of snacks, and the free 1/2 inch butt cushion that came with the ticket. We sit in the bleachers, above the suites and ground level boxes...to have one of those, you must know "someone" or "the system". As the stadium fills, the preparation for the most impressive parade on earth becomes obvious and the first words from the announcer become silent to the cries of thousands who have waited for this moment.
One-by-one, the six samba school champions from the year slowly march through the heart of the sambodroma. The floats - massive. The costumes - inconceivable. The colors - exotic. The first glimpse you have takes your breath away. I imagine my eyes were wide, in complete shock and amazement by the beauty. Yet, it didn't take long before I awoke from my trans realizing that the camera in my hands had to capture the creativity.
So impressed by the first hour+ from the first school, I couldn't imagine what my reaction would be to the champion school...for I kept saying, all of them are so incredible, how could you judge?
The competition is stiff and the rivalries are heated. Each float was an attack of imaginary prowess. Each use of person was a ploy of innovative capability. Each song, though, was a reaffirmation of love of life, affiliation to school, and commitment to nation. The bone chilling beats and beauty of those songs moved us. And when I wasn't samba-ing in the stands or snapping a picture, I was focused once again on the meaning behind this celebration.
This moment of pure bliss whisked me away to a place of deep affection and love for this utopia I temporarily call home. But as the next float passes by, my gaze of wonder squints with a suspicious eye. It is a landfill covered in oil...a mere mockery of the country's current struggles.
The costumes worn by those that adorn it likely assembled with bloodshed, corruption, and poverty...funded by troubled youth, drugs, and violence. Together, it all leaves a bittersweet realization...that this economic dichotomy has enabled a societal paradox: a nation of extreme inequalities oppressed with so much joy, color, and happiness that it forgets or simply jokes for one week that those very things are fundamental to its own existence.
This, my friends, is carnival.
Click on "carnival" in last sentence for a link to all parade pictures.
As I unpack my suitcase, filled with what you could likely consider "nightclub" material, my friend asks why I would have brought such nice clothing. It's going to be dirty, he responds. Clearly it was my first time.
I traded my Cole Haan loafers for a pair of ragged old sneakers and threw on a tank top instead. Tightly buckling my money belt under my shorts, I whispered a quick prayer under my breath only guessing what I was going to get myself into. I put the sunscreen on the desk corner next to the door to remind me that although I may feel invincible, the unforgiving Rio de Janeiro sun would fry me like a chicken. Sunglasses...a toss up. I should have brought a $1 pair from the gas station but decided to risk it on the street with the Ray Ban's I had. I glance back at my friend with that look as if I might have forgot something. Oblivious to my worry, he hurried me out the door asking "you ready for this?!" in that rhetorical no-turning-back-now voice.
The Blocos
We bolted for the door, walking just fast enough not to run...anticipating and equally prepping to endure some heavy traffic and a ferry ride across the bay. I was finally on my way to the greatest show on earth...
As we approached the bloco, the sweet smell of hot sweaty people, stale beer, and fresh popcorn was easily overwhelmed by the sounds of samba baterias, drunken sailor songs, and street vendors. My eyes widened as we neared the mob spanning the entire city block. Thousands of people seemed unrecognizable. The ridiculous costumes covered their identity but the joy emitting from them was equally disguising. So palpable I will call it transformative...the first time in life I've seen true happiness penetrate thousands the way this celebration prompted. It was also the first time I felt as if Brazil was host to an equal society. Because this was not a celebration of societal rank; this celebration is synonymous with what it means to be Brazilian.
To my left a shirtless vendor convinces me to buy a black wig amongst a blanket full of silly accessories. Of course, I comply. To my right, I weave through the mile long line awaiting the porta-potties. The stench permeates the air...so much so that my only escape for a fresh breath comes from the clean pocket of air trapped between the cap of my can and the cold beer that's in it. We pass the styrofoam cooler on my right where the vendor tries to convince us to buy the big cans for a promotional price. I try to act like I know what I'm doing and pull out a $5...before my friend butts in and takes control...instructing the man to grab the smallest cans beneath the ice.
"It gets colder quicker and stays that way longer," my friend murmurs while he pays. He cracks them open, smiling as if he's won the lottery. We pump fists and subsequently cheers..."SAUDE".
I roam the party, dodging innocent clowns, sexy police officers, and hunched over transvestites. I catch myself staring at all these crazy people. My friend notices, laughs, then hits me on the shoulder. "Act like you've been here before," he chuckles, likely saving me from petty crime.
We walk a little further into the mob attracted by the contagious energy of a percussion band jamming out to popular national songs. One of the drummers holds up a sign <here...drunks don't enter...they just leave>. I make myself comfortable.
It lasts all day and all night. We rotate in water and food as needed. As the night goes on, the people get crazier, the music gets louder, and the crowd grows larger. Subconsciously you know its late, but everything around you is so stimulating that becoming tired is nearly impossible. As 5 AM nears I wonder when we'll go home. I imagine a long day of sleep before another night of Brazilian madness...but once again, I prove my naivety. We return no later than 10 AM to the bloco with a vengeance, joining in on the civilian stroll through the streets. Onlookers from apartment buildings above throw buckets of water on us as we march along in song. This week is simply "rinse and repeat".
The Parade
The lone exception to this regiment occurs the day before the desfile - if you're one of the lucky ones who gets a ticket. Sleeping in and an afternoon nap become necessary if you are to properly brave the 8-hour all night adventure in the sambodroma. And we abided by the recommendation.
As we approached the mile long stadium, my heart began to race with excitement. Wasn't this something you only see on TV? How lucky am I to be going?
En route to our entrance, we push through crowds of onlookers. The street is lined with food, beer, and booths selling apparel from their beloved samba schools. Loaded with history, these schools are household names, practicing all year long for the big event. Their operations and funding are complex. Their membership is robust and prideful...their followership...is the world. Closer to the stadium, I get a sneak peek at the ornate costumes, easily very expensive...I'm told the finest are in the realm of $100,000-$200,000 dollars.
We make our way to our seats, dragging along our bag full of snacks, and the free 1/2 inch butt cushion that came with the ticket. We sit in the bleachers, above the suites and ground level boxes...to have one of those, you must know "someone" or "the system". As the stadium fills, the preparation for the most impressive parade on earth becomes obvious and the first words from the announcer become silent to the cries of thousands who have waited for this moment.
One-by-one, the six samba school champions from the year slowly march through the heart of the sambodroma. The floats - massive. The costumes - inconceivable. The colors - exotic. The first glimpse you have takes your breath away. I imagine my eyes were wide, in complete shock and amazement by the beauty. Yet, it didn't take long before I awoke from my trans realizing that the camera in my hands had to capture the creativity.
So impressed by the first hour+ from the first school, I couldn't imagine what my reaction would be to the champion school...for I kept saying, all of them are so incredible, how could you judge?
The competition is stiff and the rivalries are heated. Each float was an attack of imaginary prowess. Each use of person was a ploy of innovative capability. Each song, though, was a reaffirmation of love of life, affiliation to school, and commitment to nation. The bone chilling beats and beauty of those songs moved us. And when I wasn't samba-ing in the stands or snapping a picture, I was focused once again on the meaning behind this celebration.
This moment of pure bliss whisked me away to a place of deep affection and love for this utopia I temporarily call home. But as the next float passes by, my gaze of wonder squints with a suspicious eye. It is a landfill covered in oil...a mere mockery of the country's current struggles.
The costumes worn by those that adorn it likely assembled with bloodshed, corruption, and poverty...funded by troubled youth, drugs, and violence. Together, it all leaves a bittersweet realization...that this economic dichotomy has enabled a societal paradox: a nation of extreme inequalities oppressed with so much joy, color, and happiness that it forgets or simply jokes for one week that those very things are fundamental to its own existence.
This, my friends, is carnival.
Click on "carnival" in last sentence for a link to all parade pictures.
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